Easy Renovation Projects

Get Your Closet Organized

2011-11-22T15:21:00.000-08:00

With all the large house now being built, many people have a very large closet in their master bedroom, or even spare bedrooms. In its original design, by the builder, it may seems a closet has a lot of space but watch for those dreaded waste of space in your closet based on angles created in the house plan and design. Because of this lost space, many of your personal items, end up on the floor or simply hanging from a hook or a door nail.

To get organized you are going to need to transform that space into areas you can work with. Once you have decided on the items that will go back into your closet you are going to have to decide how you want it in there. Do you want to hang it? Put it on the floor? Have a few shelves? Or store some items on the floor? This information will help you take the proper steps to get your closet organized.

Multi tier hanging clothes rods are very useful. You can install half rods in various locations as well. This is an excellent choice if you need a full length rod area for dresses and want a shorter hanging space for shirts. Most of us have a standard closet with one hanging clothes rod all the way across. Even simply adding a second one down below will double your storage space!

Use bins, dividers, small shelves, or baskets to separate and organize your smaller closet items. You can even put your sweaters in a basket or on a shelf since hangers can cause them to lose their shape. Cubbies are great for shoes, belts, scarfs, and other similar items. Carousals are wonderful for hats, ties, and purses. If you are creative you may want to use a particular closet organization product for an entirely different purpose. Do it! This is your project so make it work for you.

This is your chance to customize your closet storage space. Make it accessible and convenient for what you need. Some of us have tons of clothes and only a few pairs of shoes. Some of us have a pair of shoes to go with each outfit. Therefore no custom closet organization design is perfect for everyone. For the best results, take a complete inventory of the items you plan on to return to your closet and devise a plan that will give the right amount of space for the items you need it for.

Do you plan to live in your current residence for a long time? If so, a permanent closet organization system is something you will be interested in. For those of you who move often or who rent, consider using removable closet organization products that install and remove easily. Otherwise you will find yourself in the same predicament each time you have to move. You will also want to consider the cost of each type of closet organization system before making any decisions.

Many people don’t realize the amount of space they have on the inside of their closet doors. You can hang a bag for hats, purses, belts, umbrellas, gloves, etc. here. It is also a perfect location for hanging a shoe organizer. Make sure you take this area into consideration while devising your custom closet organization layout.

Don’t spend money on items to design your closet until you are absolutely sure that they are going to fit well in your closet area. Most closet organizing products can’t be returned or exchanged if you have already started putting them together unless they are defective. It is a good ideal to take your measurements twice in the closet as well as when you are looking for products to purchase.

Basic Kitchen Plans

2011-11-16T20:59:00.000-08:00

The efficient U-shape plan is versatile and usually puts one's workstation on each of three walls. The pros of this are great storage and counter space on three sides that maximize efficiency but this is not the best plans for entertaining or for accommodating multiple cooks. Major traffic jams in the kitchen! Another thing to consider is you have to have the basic 8x8 foot space and anything less won't provide the minimum 4 feet work space that is recommended for the center of the room. In a large kitchen for maximum efficiency, locate one workstation in a freestanding island.

The L-shape plan allows two workstations on one wall and the third on an adjacent wall. This layout is much more efficient concerning space than the U-shape plan especially if the main workstations are located close to the bend of the L. The L-shaped plan is not well suited for small kitchen spaces and you need to allow enough open counter space between the two workstations that share the same wall. This is at least four feet. Other things to consider is the arrangement of the workstations which are critical. The work needs to flow from the refrigerator to the sink and then to the stove cooktop and serving area. An ideal eating nook is the area opposite the bend of the L.

The island plan is a popular design because it features a freestanding workstation usually including the sink or stovetop. This is a wonderful plan for large kitchens where the work triangle exceeds the twenty-six foot rule that dictates that for maximum efficiency. Island plans are not well suited in kitchens where two work stations must be on opposite walls. The island is a convenient location for specialty countertops such as butcher block for chopping veggies or marble for rolling out those delectable desserts. Another idea is a rolling island which can roll outside to your patio or deck when entertaining guest. When one end of the island is anchored to a wall or line of cabinets, this is called a peninsula plan. The peninsula kitchen packs all the versatility of island but does not require as much space. Like islands, the peninsula plan gives the cook a workstation and a view into another room rather than just toward a wall. After meal preparation, a peninsula can double as a serving buffet or bar.

The one wall plan is normally seen in smaller homes, vacation homes and apartments. This floor plan is definitely the most space saving but is least efficient for the cook. Normally there is a door at each end which translates into lots of through traffic. This can create quite a few problems as well as frustration for the cook. One wall kitchens work better when the sink is in the center beside the refrigerator and the stovetop. If you have the space, allow four feet of counter space on each side of the sink.

All About Kitchen Remodeling

2011-11-12T20:05:00.000-08:00

Is the flooring in your kitchen stained and cracked? Are the countertops marred with burns and nicks? Is the floor plan of your kitchen awkward and ill-designed? If so, it is time to consider kitchen remodeling. Updating your kitchen can enhance the value of your entire house, and kitchen remodeling can be an exciting process that calls upon your creativity. You may need a little bit of patience as you live through the kitchen remodeling process, but the end result will be a kitchen you love and are proud to share with family and friends.

Kitchen remodeling runs the gamut from small upgrades, to a full-scale luxury remodeling venture. Small upgrades could include changing the hardware on your cabinets, refacing the cabinets, or replacing them. Or perhaps you might want to replace that scuffed floor, or resurface your countertops. Such simple changes can make an enormous difference in your space. However, a full-scale kitchen remodel is going to result in the most satisfying changes for your home.

Start your kitchen remodeling by making extensive notes about what you want. Think about what works and doesn't work in your current kitchen. Look through magazines or scan the internet for kitchen remodeling ideas. You might want to make a file of designs and products you like. Don't hold back at this point; make a note of everything you might want to include in your kitchen remodeling.

Next, draw up a budget. This is when you match your beautiful ideas to what you can afford. You might be surprised how much you can get for your money, or the compromises you can make that will still afford you an elegant, functional design. At this point, you may also want to contract the services of a designer or space planner. They can be enormously helpful with your kitchen remodel, and point out products and design ideas that might not have occurred to you.

One of the most important decisions you will make is hiring a contractor, so take you time and do some research. Visit home improvement stores or local remodelers to get a feel for what kind of kitchen remodeling projects they specialize in. Share your vision with the professionals you are considering. Take the time to check references. Pay attention to whether or not you feel comfortable with the contractor. Does he or she listen to your ideas and respect what you are creating? A contractor-client relationship for a kitchen remodeling is like a short-term marriage, so make certain yours will be a happy one!

Finally, prepare yourself and your family for the disruption that occurs with a kitchen remodeling project. With advance planning, this can be minimized, but some is inevitable. Discuss the time frame with your contractor and share this information with your family, so everyone is aware of how long the construction will take and what to expect. In a very short time, all memories of any uproar with the kitchen remodeling will be forgotten and you'll be enjoying your new kitchen.

Four Types of Home Kitchen Faucets

2011-11-06T13:02:00.000-08:00

In the last post, we have looked at backsplash selection for the kitchen and staying on the kitchen remodeling subject, you will need to consider the type of faucets you will have for your kitchen. It's important to know which faucets will look best in your kitchen, but it is also important to know how they function and what are the pros and cons for each. This wilI make your selection much more easier.
When it comes to identifying the various faucet types, you need to know how they will work for you and are they easy to repair afterward? Knowing your faucet type is an essential first step before any repair. There are four types of faucets used in most common homes: home:

• Ball Faucet Type
• Disc Faucet Type
• Cartridge Faucet Type
• Compression Faucet Type

The first three (ball, disc and cartridge) are all types of "washerless faucets" since they do not use rubber or neoprene washers. The latter (compression) is very much your basic washer faucet. Let's take a look at each type and gain an overview of how they work and how they're different.

Ball faucets are very common in kitchen sinks and were the first type of washerless faucet. They are
identifiable by their single handle which moves over a rounded ball shaped cap right above the base of the faucet spout. The plastic or metal ball inside the faucet body and under the ball shaped cap has chambers or slots in it which control the flow and mixing temperature of the water coming from the faucet. Because of the number of parts which make up this type of faucet, ball faucets tend to leak more than other washerless faucets.

Disc faucets are the latest development in modern faucet technology. They are identifiable by their single lever over a wide cylindrical body. These faucets have a wide cartridge housing two ceramic discs which slide over each other to control water flow and mixing temperature. These faucets are high quality, are very reliable and do not need repair very often.

Cartridge faucets operate with a movable stem cartridge that moves up and down to regulate flow. They are identifiable more by how they feel when they operate than how they look. As opposed to a ball faucet that you push back to turn on, a single handle cartridge faucets operate in an "up/down" motion to adjust water volume and a "left/right" motion for temperature.

Similarly, a two handle stem cartridge faucet looks almost indistinguishable from a compression type washer faucet. However, again, you can tell the difference by how the handles feel when used. A compression faucet requires you to tighten down (compress) the washer to close the water flow. With a cartridge faucet, the action is smooth and consistent. When the handle gets to the off position, the faucet turn off without added pressure being required as with a compression faucet.

Handle Type: Single or Double

Compression faucets have been around since the beginning. They are found in old homes and updated versions are found in new homes to this day. They are typically the least expensive and most prone to leaks and maintenance. They are identifiable by their separate hot and cold water handles and their action requiring you to tighten the handles down to close off the water flow. Compression faucets work by using a compression stem which is a type of glorified screw with a washer at the end of it pressing against a valve seat.

Handle Type: Double

Picking The Right Backsplash With A Granite Countertop

2011-11-04T21:35:00.000-07:00

In the last post, we looked at how to install a kitchen sink and continuing along the same renovation project idea; we will now look at selecting a proper backsplash to complement a granite countertop. Newer built houses have more and more granite countertops in their kitchens and the trend of having this type of countertops is continuously increasing.

With a granite countertop you can expect style beauty and also durability. If you are presently remodeling your kitchen, you may want to put the selection of your backsplash toward s the bottom of your priority list. The reason is simple. It is easier to match your backsplash to your countertop than the opposite. Less costly to modify if it is absolutely required. So concentrate on your countertop selection and installation, first. Then you can follow up on your backsplash after.

The first step in your selection process is to complete and finalize your countertop selection. Once it is done, concentrate your efforts on the redesign of your backsplash. As you know, granite countertops come in a variety of colors such as green, brown, black, charcoal. The color selected for your countertop will help you immensely in your backsplash selection.

Always choose a backsplash color that will go nicely with your countertop. Using tiles as backsplash must provide a smooth transition between the countertop and the backsplash. By doing so, you will create a mirror effect in the countertop surface. This effect will enhance the look of your kitchen while giving the illusion of a bigger kitchen as well. Consider the shade of your backsplash versus the granite countertop. Let's say you pick a total different color; you should then make sure that it isn't too dark or too light and vice versa comparing both the backsplash and countertop.

Like for painting, always make use of the samples the local builder store uses. In worst case, order samples through the staff. Pick the style and color you think will fit best with your granite countertop. Again, not only the color but the texture, material and style comes to play.

Finally, determine which of the samples ordered or borrowed looks bed against the countertop already installed. When it is done, you should have plenty of lighting whether it is pure daylight or electrical. In the final process of your backsplash selection, consider the style of your kitchen as a whole. items such as kitchen cabinets colors, light fixtures, under the cupboard lighting, kitchen size, faucet styles should all be considered in order to make a wise choice.

If your budget allows, you can always have the selection done by a designer but doing your own selection will prove to be cheaper and you will feel proud of your selection if it is done the right way as explained above.

Replacing a Kitchen Sink

2011-11-03T23:17:00.000-07:00

You may be redoing your kitchen right now in preparation for the holidays and one of the easy projects you can do yourself without getting the services of a contractor for is the replacement of your kitchen sink. The first important step to replace a kitchen is to the proper selection at your local home builder. Don't be afraid to consult with the staff. Bring pictures from your digital camera of the kitchen you are redecorating to show the staff and they can better counsel you on your selection.

Things you need to consider is the the style, whether it will be granite and if so the color, size. The type of kitchen sinks are: the single bowl, the double bowl and triple bowl sinks. In normal condition, your triple bowl will be used as a garbage disposal unit. Also make sure the piping under your cabinet will easily adapt to the new sink for drainage.

Step 1: Cut the sink opening into your countertop.

Once the countertop is installed and is properly glued and screwed to the base cabinet, you will need to determine where the sink will sit. As mentioned earlier, it is important to plan the location based on your drainage systems for the sink. With the help of a template, using a pencil, trace the line where the sink will be around the template. This will be your cutting line. Set aside the template and drill a hole on the inside corner of the line just drawn with the template. This will be the starting point of cutting your countertop for the sink location. With a jigsaw and following the line traced, cut out the opening. Confirm and verify after cutting the opening out that your sink will fit into the opening. Ensure when cutting that the corners are rounded when cutting to accommodate the bowl corner shapes.

Step 2: Insert the Strainer

Before placing the sink into its opening and gluing it and attach it for good to the cabinet and countertop, you will need to put the strainer together. It is easier to do it at this time since you can see clearly the components vice being laying down underneath on your back inside the cabinet. First you will be required to peel all plastic from brass and metal components and remove any packaging if required.

Using a caulking gun apply a thin coat (bead) of silicone caulk all around your sink hole. On completion, insert the strainer body from above in the hole and press firmly ensuring the strainer is centered perfectly. Remove any excess of caulking now before it dries up. Now, going underneath the sink, insert the rubber seal and the metal washers that part of the strainer's hardware over the neck of the strainer.

Once in, you will be required to secure the locknut and the screws by hand at first. This will be followed of a final tightening with a proper size pipe wrench. In the event, you are dealing with a double sink, you will need to repeat this step. As for sinks with a garbage disposal unit, a strainer is not required.

Step 3: Setting the sink into the cutout opening

The first part of this step will be to apply the required silicone caulk again using a caulking gun. Ensure the opening are and the edges are smooth and that the countertop is clean from the sawdust. It is important that this area is clean of all dust for the silicone to set and seal properly. Now with the sink upside down apply the silicone caulking all around the sink's bottom edge. It's important to not overdue it and apply an even bead all around.

Step 4: Inserting the sink in the opening

Turning the sink back the other way, place gently the sink over the opening and lower it slowly into the opening. Once firm on the countertop and in its final position, press firmly on its edges to allow the silicone caulking to attach to its new surface. Using the Instructions manual from the manufacturer, install the faucet. Ensure the acquisition of your faucet complements the style of your sink. For example, if your sink has a stainless steel finish, do not install a faucet with a polished metal finish.

Step 5: Tightening of the Retaining Screws

Once your faucet is installed with no leaks, you can apply the final touch of tightening the retaining screws under the countertop and inside the cabinet. You will require an adjustable wrench to tighten each retaining screws. If there is any excess of silicone caulking seeping out, wipe it off at that time.

Step 6: Pipe Fitting and Hooking Up

Connect the waste pipe to the strainer body. You may have to use the waste pipe with a P-Trap to accommodate a right fit. Ensure you don't forget to add a tee-wye with a 1/2 inch threaded fitting. This is mainly if you are planning to hook a dishwasher later on.

Fall Home Repair and Maintenance

2011-11-01T19:28:00.000-07:00

Summer is now over and now the signs of winter are approaching. The weather is getting colder, the leaves have fallen, the flowers have waned. So, before the weather gets too cold, and the first signs of snow appear, it is important to take care of your property and your house. It's important to prepare for the winter in order to avoid further damages during the winter and the early spring. Below is a guide on how to prepare for the winter season.

Gutters and Downspouts

If your house is surrounded by trees whether they are on your property or not; make a habit every fall to clean the gutters and downspouts of any leaves, pine needles and cones and any other debris possible. Best way, is to flush with a garden hose the debris with a water hose and let it flow towards the downspout. I always collect the majority of the leaves, if there are many with my hands or a small scooper. Leaving the leaves in the gutters during the winter will cause a blockage of water flow in the gutter, which will rot and cause pest infestations. A frozen blocked gutter will also cause problems with your roof, soffits and gutter. Verify the gutters are sealed at their joints and that they are flowing away from the foundations, driveways and walkways.

Windows and Doors

If you have summer screens on your doors and windows, you will be required to remove them and replace them with cool weather storm windows and doors. Check the seals on the door jamb and make sure it is not cracked or ripped. If it is coming off, remove the old one and replace it with a new seal strip.

Check your windows and doors for cold air coming in. Make sure the bottom seal of your door is sealed properly when the door is shutt. Any other windows you see that may need repairs will need your attention. Cases such as cracked caulking will cause cold air coming in and the window to rot if it is a wooden frame. The result will be condensation building up on the inside window pane. Furthermore, your heating bills will skyrocket from lost heat.

Heating Systems

The fall is an excellent time to replace the furnace filter and have it maintenanced by a professional. It is worth the $120.00 especially since it has to be done by a certified technician. Many insurance companies require properties to have the furnace annually checked and cleaned annually, at the minimum. Tuning your furnace will prevent further costly problems in the future.
And when you get the furnace done, continue with air ducts and ensure the summer dirt and dust is cleaned up. Breathing inside dust can lead to pulmonary problems in the long term. The clean ducts will provide stable controlled heat throughout the house.

Plumbing

Plumbing can be also another nightmare in the winter if the proper care is not taken during the fall. You should ensure all the pipes are properly isolated to prevent frozen pipes. As well, all outside taps should be shutt from their respective isolation valves. Know how to locate and turn off the water shut-off valve in case pipes do freeze.

Chimney and Fireplace

Not all houses have a chimney, but for those who do consider calling a professional to inspect and clean your chimney. Fireplaces that are regularly used during the season should have an annual cleaning to prevent dangerous chimney fires.Test your fireplace flue for a tight seal when closed.

Attic Ventilation

Attic ventilation is crucial and important to keep your heat inside the house. Attic insulation act as lid on the house heating system for your best comfort. An inspection of your attic insulation is recommended particularly for older houses. Look for vents at the eaves, ensuring they are not covered with insulation. Look for any possible debris clogging your ridge vents and vents at eaves. Finally, inspect your attic while up there for potential rodents appearance or birds. Be sure attic insulation doesn't cover vents in the eaves to prevent winter ice dams on the roof.

Landscape and Yardwork

Finally it may seems to you that the grass is not growing anymore as temperature are getting colder but this time of the year is the best period to seed and fertilize your grass since the grass roots are getting deeper in the ground. The fall is an excellent time to also prune your shrubs and trees as they are approaching their dormant phase. And with winter approaching, many trees have ice buildup on their branches and trimming the dead branches may prove to be a safe way to protect yourself and the family from falling branches in the winter.

Factors to Consider Before Painting your House

2011-10-31T00:15:00.000-07:00

One thing that people do when they first buy a house is repaint the interior. Usually, we don't like the colors in the place despite the fact we just spent a few hundreds of thousand dollars. Painting the interior and also the exterior to a certain extent is relatively an easy renovation project. The fact and the matter is, painting your interior needs planning, or you will be sorry for having spent all that time washing, patching, sanding and priming and finally painting.
At the start, of your project you must ask yourself why you are painting. Is it because of the color you dislike? Is it because it is damaged and you need to fix it and paint after? Is it a new wall, you just built and you need to prime and paint? This is particularly evident for basement finishing. The common trend I have seen lately is people paint before selling their property in order to create an upgrade on the sale.

Keep in mind to choose a paint and a color that will create a positive impact to people visiting. It is not because you like powerful colors that your potential buyer will. This may have an adverse effect on your sale. Consider going neutral, if you're not sure. Colour preference can be very subjective, and occasionally offensive enough to create a negative first impression.

Most of the people visiting your house for sale won't be offended to be in the presence of a neutral soft beige color because they will be able to imagine the room or space with their own style, their influence and their personality. It allows them to move in and not be perturbed by having to paint the place prior to move.

Painting with a light color is easier to get a good coverage of your walls. Believe it or not, darker colours require more coats to achieve the same result. And if you wish to go from dark to light in the future, you will have more on your hands. Either by applying more primer like a double coat or more paints like 3 coats. One other advantage of using lighter colours is that it will hide imperfections particularly with regards to old houses and plaster walls.

If I can give you a good tip is to take pictures of the room you will need to paint, with the sun coming in the room, depending of its location. And take pictures when it is darker like on a cloudy day. Print them and bring them to your local paint store. It will allow the staff at the paint store to better coach you on the colour that would be best for your room. Factors he will be looking at are: amount of lights coming in the room, layout of the room, size of the room, furnishings and trims.

Using paint samples at your local paint stores are great to use and I would also recommend you bring several shade sample cards at home based on the color you have plan to come up with. I never personally buy my paint at the paint store the first time. I ask questions, recommendations collect my samples.

This is after I have done my research on the internet. Looking prepared and ready facilitate the task for the staff at your local paint store to come with an excellent choice. Heading to the paint store, I have one main base color in mind and then look for different tones and take the samples. Sometimes, I may end up with 5 to 6 different shades of a base colour. Place them on your wall and see for yourself. Place them near a moulding too to see the effect.

After all this, if you are still unsure, you can always consider hiring a designer. They don't come cheap so you may think twice about this one. Sometimes a friend's opinion who have a flair for colours is worth just the same. So talk to your friends and ask what they think. Maybe they lived the experience themselves before and they can help you greatly with their ideas.

Redecorating by Adding a Chair Rail

2010-04-04T16:33:00.000-07:00

In the older houses from our parents and grand-parents, chair rails served exactly that purpose it was a guard for the wall protecting against chairs when someone was pulling out of the table. Chair rail level was determined based on the height of the back of the chairs in that space. The chair rail has regained a certain popularity lately and it's use, although it can still be for protecting beautiful walls painted or covered with a beautiful wallpaper; it's use has become more of esthetixc look and add a charming look to a dull room.

Chair rail can be built using wood or urethane. The urethane moulding has an advantage for the installation process since it is lightweight and easier to apply. For this post, I will go with the urethane style moulding. The uretahne moulding come in a variety of preprimed profiles and sizes for windows, doors, crown moldings and decorative panels. Of note they can be expensive but cost much less than wood moldings while carrying the same profiles. At your local home centers or lumberyards, talk to a representative for asistance. When you head to your home center, ensure you have a definite idea of what you want your room to look like. It can be a Victorian or Colonial as an example. Having this pre-definite idea will save you time but also will assist you in the size you need as well. How wide you want your pieces for example?? One other thing to consider as part of your planning process is the height of your chair rail. Will it be a mid wall positionning or slightly higher. One thing to consider is if you need to apply paint or a wall paper, ensure you carry these steps first. It is a lot easier if your wall is painted prior and same goes for the wall paper. Your marking lines should then be marked as a guidance. One thing to remember too is to keep a level nearby when installing them Even though your line is straight - it doesn't mean the wall is straight or flush.

The tools you will need for this project are: an electrical miter saw or a miter box will do with a hand miter saw if an electrical one is not available, electrical drill, small finishing nails, adhesive carpenter's glue, acrylic caulking with cauling gun, level, stand or sawhorse to paint your chair rail on. If not a solid old table will do or any large surface with a tarp to cover from the paint.

One manufacturer recommends cutting the molding about 1/4 in. overlong for long runs (12 to 16 ft.) to help make up for seasonal wall expansion. It'll compress slightly and snap into place. Shorter legths to 8 ft. should be cut about 1/8 in. overlong and anything less than 4 ft. should be cut to fit. The company also recommends butting crosscut ends together when splicing long lengths instead of bevel cutting moldings at mid wall joints. One thing I recommend is to measure twice, cut once. If in doubt, cut a bit too long. It is easier to trim a little extra than to replace missing material. The molding is applied just like wood molding except that it cuts and nails easier.

Set the molding in your miter box (screw the miter box down to your sawhorse or work-table and cut it on your mark with slow steady strokes as you hold the molding firmly with your other hand. If using an electrical miter saw ensure you have the molding piece firm against the vertical plate and set properly on the saw. If you have an advanced electrical saw, many come with a laser guided cut-line. This will be your guide as well the molding can be secured propely with clamp incorporated with the saw. The blade should be a fine toothed one - one used for this type of work. A blade for rough work will damage the cut end portion of your molding. Don't bother coping joints in the corners; just lay the molding on it's back side and cut at 45 degrees for inside and outside corners. One thing I do is pre-drill my molding pieces at strategic points such as the corners and joints and also evenly along the molding piece. Pre-drilled pieces for nails will prevent your molding to split or crack.

In order to save time and also to make it easier after the molding is installed, I also pre-paint my molding pieces. the urethane style of moldings are pre-finished so no primer is required nor sanding. If sanding is ever needed, a light grain is recommended to remove any imperfections. Once installed, all that will be required is touch with paint where the nails are and have been caulked over

Installing your molding with nails alone won't do - you must use the polyurethane adhesive glue to bond it to the wall surface and make up for its low density. The glue must be applied to the back side and the joints. Glue and nail the molding to the wall. Make small reference marks along the wall with your level to make sure you keep the molding straight as you nail. Set the nails with a nail set. Next step is to fill the nail holes with spackling compound and the joints with acrylic caulk, then wipe with a slightly damp cloth the excess. You will need a second application and again you can wipe or lighly sand the excess. Finish with a paint touch up and your room will look a lot different and nicer too.

Simple Floating Shelves

2010-03-26T17:53:00.000-07:00

This simple shelving project is easy to build and can be a quick project done over a day during the weekend. It is strong quick to build and has no visible support. These "floating shelves are perfect for displaying your collectibles, photos, travel mementos, or just about anything. Without the brackets and clunky hardware you'd find with store-bought shleves or kits, they seem to be suspended in mid-air. No one would believe that they are made from plain, old lightweight and inexpensive hollow core doors. This post will show you how to install these shelves, and shorter ones securely with basic tools. It is a project any beginner can do without any problems.

You will need for this project, a cheap hollow core door, lag screws, and cleat that hold the shelf to the wall. Ensure the hollow core door doesn't have pre-set holes for door knobs or predrilled holes for locksets in them already pre-cut. As far as tools are concerned, you can get by with just a circular saw and edge guide to cut the door. Use a table saw to cut the cleat because a clean, straight cut is important for a good-looking shelf. You will need also a stud finder, a chisel, a hammer, a wrench, 1 inch brads, 3-1/2 inch lag screws, carpenter's glue and a level. Once finished, you can paint your shelves or leave him the natural color of wood. if you go this route, you will need to cover the exposed edges with a matching wood trim. This can be easily achieved by shaving 1/8 inch from the side and front edges to eliminate the slight bevel on each edge then apply the matching trim. You can also cover the entire shelf with plastic laminate if you want a tough , hard surfaced shelf.

First, trace the horizontal location for each shelf using a 4-ft level as your guide. Use a stud finder to mark the locations of the studs and lightly press masking tape over each one. If you don't have a string line, use a long straightedge and mark the wall with a pencil. Check your marks with the 4-ft level.

Cut the door blank lenghtwise after clamping a straightedge guide to the door. be sure to use a 40-tooth carbide blade for a smooth cut. The measure the space between the outer veneers of the door and cut cleats from a 2X4 to this thickness. In many case the measurement will likely be 1-3/32 inches. Use straight dry lumber for the cleats.

Predrill 1/4 in. diameter holes at the stud locations after you cut the cleats to length (the measurement between the end blocks of the door half) Hold the cleat to your line drawn earlier on the wall and drill into the stud with a 1/8 in. bit. Using a wrench, install one lag screw into each stud until its tight. Use 1/4-in. X 3-1/2 in. lag screws. each cleat must be straight as an arrow,

Cut away the corrugated cardboard cores at least 1-1/2 in. from the cut edge inside the hollow portion of the door. Scrape the glue carefully without gouging the wood surface. Dry-fit the shelf to make sure the blank fits over the cleat. Check the back side of the shelf and scribe it to the wall if necessary. Use a bock plane or sander to remove material from the back edge for a tight fit. Then apply the carpenter's glue to the top of the cleat screwed to the wall already and the inside bottom edge of the door blank. Slide the shelf over the wood cleat.

Nail the shelf to the cleat using a square as your guide. Start at the middle and work your way to each end. Use 1-in. brad nails spaced 8 in apart. You can also build shorter shelves by cutting the shelf to length. Glue a filler block flush with the end and nail each side with small brad nails.

And there it is done. You have a strong, quick to build and no visible support shelving unit. of note, these shelves are permanent and tough to remove, so plan ahead. The glue not only makes the shelves strong but also impossible to remove without ruining them.